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Vanilla Leaf
While modern adventurers smear their skin with toxic chemicals to keep pesky bugs at bay, natives of the Pacific Northwest took a less carcinogous approach. The fresh-squeezed juice of common Vanilla Leaf was applied to fend off mosquitos and black flies. Dried leaves, smelling faintly of vanilla, were hung in bunches about the longhouse for the same purpose. A potion of boiled Vanilla Leaf was used to wash bedding to eliminate bed bugs and mites and as a hair treatment to fend off lice and fleas. Look for Vanilla Leaf at trailside in heavy forest wherever moisture accumulates.
Illustration by Manami Kimura
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Stein Valley Mini-Traverse E-mail
(14 - user rating)
Written by Brian Grover   
Level: Difficult
Distance: 51 km
Time: 5+ days
Elevation Change: 1870 m
Season: June to Sept
Map: 92 I/5 & 92 J/8
Access: From Vancouver take the bus to Pemberton [See Getting to Whistler.] and, as prearranged, meet the driver from Pemberton Taxi [604 894-1111] who will take you some 60 km further along the Duffy Lake Road to the Blowdown Pass area where this route begins. 3½ km beyond the Duffy Lake East Recreation Site the driver should turn right onto a disused logging road marked with a "No Through Road" sign. With luck the mainline will be passable for the next 9 km. If luck is not on your side and you find the road washed out you'll have to hoof it uphill the rest of the way in. Stay on the mainline all the way until you reach a large flat parking area at about the 9 km mark. Take the first branch line to the left after this and continue for another 1½ km to the beginning of a private mining road. Contact the B.C. Forest Service in Lillooet to check road conditions ahead of time. Follow the mining road in towards Blowdown Pass.

Depending on how far you've already had to hike you may want to make pretty Blowdown Lake your destination for the first night on the trail. From the start of the Silver Queen Mine road the lake is just 3 km away while windy Blowdown Pass is a further kilometre. Many different routes emanate from the alpine pass. True fanatics may want to set up a base camp from which to explore the wide open alpine hereabouts before continuing on the Mini-Traverse proper. Gott Peak to the north and Gotcha Peak to the south are popular half day ascents, both requiring route-finding skills.

From Blowdown Pass at 2150 m our route continues east along the mine road for 8½ km, dropping gradually at first then more steeply before taking up a course parallel to the South Fork of Cottonwood Creek. Abruptly the road crosses a bridge over Cottonwood Creek, heading off in a southerly direction. Continue hiking east along the north side of the creek for 15 minutes or so. Where the road plunges down towards the creek bed you'll find a well-defined trail to the east, continuing to parallel the creek. Follow this trail for 5 km down through the meadow, passing a disused trapper's cabin just before the confluence of Cottonwood Creek's north and south fork. The best camping in the area is on the opposite side of the waterway. From Blowdown Pass to Cottonwood Junction expect a descent of 1170 m over 13½ km.

The trail next drops steeply south into the Stein River Valley continuing to follow the course of Cottonwood Creek. The trail is well-defined with little underbrush but your progress may be impeded again by deadfalls. No longer a hindrance, fallen logs will get you across Cattle Valley Creek 4½ km further on. The campsite here is well-established but Cottonwood Creek camp is just 3½ km away at the bottom of the valley. To reach it you'll have to negotiate a succession of switchbacks over loose talus, following rock cairns where the footpath is not obvious. Pause in your route finding from time to time to enjoy the view of the valley laid out below. From Cottonwood Junction to the banks of the Stein is 8½ km with an elevation loss of just 390 m but the going can be taxing at times paticularly if the trail has not been recently cleared of deadfalls.

At the bottom you'll find the campsite just beyond the Stein Valley Heritage Trail. Follow the previous hike description in reverse to reach the community of Lytton at the confluence of the Fraser and Thompson Rivers.



Copyright © 2007 Brian Grover. Content Distribution is Prohibited
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