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Briana Doyle MOMENTUM Magazine
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Dentalia Shells
These thin, tubular mollusks formed the currency of commerce throughout the Pacific Northwest as long as 3000 years ago. Pre-European civilization is often considered a barter economy, with, for instance, coastal tribes swapping oolichan grease directly for prized Oregon obsidian. Commodity traders, however, could rely on this wampum to close a transaction when interest in the goods was decidedly one-sided. Called hykwa in Chinook jargon, dentalia shells possessed all the necessary attributes of money, being portable, recognizable and durable but rare and desirable enough to foster trade. Being available in a variety of sizes, the tusk-like shells were even divisible into small change. Professional traders are known to have tattooed measuring lines on their forearms as a handy calculator of individual shell values.
Only a handful of groups, including the Nuu-chah-nulth in the vicinity of Tofino, possessed dentalia in quantities sufficient enough to make them wealthy.
Harvesting the deep water mollusks was no easy undertaking however. From a dugout canoe a long, broom-like apparatus was thrust straight down into the muddy sea bottom then retrieved. With any luck a shell or two would be trapped amongst the stiff twigs at the end of the handle.
Dentalia were also ostentatiously displayed as symbols of wealth and power in the form of body adornments. Perhaps most recognizable are the breast plates invariably worn by cheesy Hollywood Indians.
Illustration by Manami Kimura
09
Feb
2007
Gray Whale Tours
(5 - user rating)
Written by Brian Grover
Gray Whale watching usually takes place on the west coast of Vancouver Island in the Pacific Rim National Park area. Tours originate in either Tofino or Uclulet. The area is serviced by both bus and air from Vancouver. For details on Getting to Tofino see Appendix.
As with orca tours, Gray whale watching is done from either small, manoeuvrable zodiacs or larger motor yachts. As the Tofino area is exposed to the open Pacific, however, you may want to take seasickness pills prior to boarding just as a precaution. Large swells, originating off Japan, are carried across the ocean on the Japan Current to break like thunder on the BC coast. Wild northern weather can whip those swells up into frenzy.
A German tourist and the skipper of a zodiac from Jamie's Whaling Station were killed in 1998 when a freak wave broadsided the usually seaworthy craft. Some tours may be cancelled due to stormy conditions. Tour operators will usually explore more protected water when poor conditions prevail. Needless to say the chances of seeing the migrating behemoths is almost nil whenever this occurs. The protected inlets around Tofino offer a chance to spot resident Gray whales, orcas, dolphins and porpoises or scavenging wolves and bears on shore. Informed operators will also take the time to explain the various controversies surrounding the Clayoquot temporal rainforest.
No matter the weather conditions be sure to carry along some extra clothing including hat and gloves, jacket and extra sweater.
Though camping in Pacific Rim National Park is an ideal way to explore this part of the coast the weather can be uncooperative during prime whale watching season. A new shuttle service has been inaugurated to ferry people between the national park and Tofino or Uclulet. To avoid the commute, put up at a centrally located hotel like the Maquinna Lodge instead. Though not luxury accommodation, the Maquinna Lodge is comfortable and close to tours, groceries, restaurants, pubs and gift shops. Be prepared to entertain yourself in the evening hours however, as Tofino is hardly an urban centre by anybody's definition.
The five-star Canadian Princess Resort has put together an excellent, whale-watching package for the spring season only. As a bonus the cheapest accommodation is aboard the 70 metre long Canadian Princess which was built in 1932 and served as a survey vessel until 1975. Now it serves as the centrepiece of the Resort itself. While ship accommodation is somewhat more rustic than that on shore, all staterooms have a sink and bunkbeds with shared bathrooms. Ship accommodations can be a bit noisy: creaking and groaning throughout the night. What, however, could be more in tune with the romance of high seas adventure than "roughing it" for a night on a charming old vessel? Shore-based accommodations are 2-4 person deluxe suites with private amenities.
Canadian Princess Resort customers receive a slight discount on bus transportation from Vancouver or Victoria and will be dropped off and picked up at the resort.
